The true role of food and wine critics, the advice that some chefs offer to multinationals and the profound crisis of the “trade” in the dining room. These are the big questions addressed in his editorial since director of Gambero Rosso Marco Mensurati who launches a joint application to address the crisis in the restaurant business
In his latest editorial, the director of Gambero Rosso Marco Mensurati picks up on the controversy sparked by the latest review on Niko Romito at the Bulgari in Rome. And he does it by underlining the 3 macro problems that the restaurant business is facing.
First, he addresses the true role of food and wine criticism. That is, an art that today has lost its most authentic meaning and that needs to be recovered so that authoritative subjects, starting with Gambero, continue to be a reference point and guide towards quality consumption.
“We believe that criticism is either sincere and courageous or it simply isn’t” Thus writes the director, hoping for a change of course by getting off the stage of self-satisfaction.
No less dangerous, then, is the advice that some chefs offer to multinationals. In fact, it often imprisons them in traps that end up taking away the flair and originality of even the most visionary chef. In addition, obtaining resounding rejection from customers.
But the real vexata quaestio is the profound crisis “of the trade” in the dining room, an aspect that also affected the drastic judgment on Bulgari in Rome.
“The evening of Ruggeri and his guests at Niko Romito’s would not have been so disastrous if a professional staff had been on duty at the Bulgari, worthy of the names and ‘weights’ in question”, Mensurati denounces.
And he emphasizes not only the lack of personnel but also the lack of training. And finally on the absence of a system of rules governing a demanding and too often still undervalued profession.
Hence the appeal that Gambero Rosso launches to all the protagonists of the sector. That is, offering one’s own platform as a forum in which to shape a common instance to be brought to politics.
Objective? Finding a quick solution to the dramatic crisis that the restaurant sector is going through. “We invite all the great chef-entrepreneurs, from Francesco Cerea to Gennaro Esposito, from Niko Romito to Massimo Bottura to Mauro Uliassi and all the other “stars” in the sector, to discuss with us and with anyone who cares about the topic.
Let’s unite, let’s ask for a finally adequate intervention by politics. Only in this way can we continue to grow in a healthy way. The time is ripe ”he concludes.
About Gambero Rosso
Gambero Rosso is the leading platform for content, training, promotion and consultancy in the Italian Wine Travel Food sector. Gambero Rosso has a range of periodicals, books, guides, broadcasting (Sky 415 and 133) and web OTT with which it reaches professionals, commercial distribution channels and enthusiasts in Italy and around the world.
Info
www.gamberorosso.it
No comment yet, add your voice below!